Mrs Ellen Evershed, embroideress; a Victorian ‘Dragon’
Are you a fan of needlework? Then you absolutely must visit Mrs. Evershed’s London emporia. Step back into the 19th century and explore 7 Hanover Square, 59 South Moulton Street, or 71 Chiltern Street, and marvel at ‘rare old pieces of petit-point, quilting, crewel work, and silk work [which] mingle happily with the modern'.
Enlargement of embroidered bookbinding by Mrs Evershed on Washington Irving’s The keeping of Christmas at Bracebridge Hall - British Library Collins 461
Ellen Evershed, widowed aged 38, was left to raise four young children, yet she thrived. By 1913, her estate was worth the modern equivalent of £27,900. What was her secret? A combination of exquisite embroidery and entrepreneurial genius that could rival even the sharpest minds of today’s ‘Dragons’ Den’.
Ellen Middlebrook Cockcroft (1834-1913) came from a Leeds family of drapers. The 1851 census records Ellen in the Brighton hosier and draper’s shop of her stepfather Thomas Sturdy. In 1862, She married Frederick Evershed (1832-1872) from Sussex, a draper who specialised in silk.
The Eversheds owned two shops in central Rugby catering for women and men. An adroit user of the social media of the day, Ellen advertised new stock in The Rugby Advertiser and in 1866 called for apprentices and ‘improvers’ in millinery and dressmaking, an indication of her success.
The Rugby Advertiser 9 May 1863 alerted Mrs Evershed’s patrons to new stock. British Newspaper Archive
The Rugby Advertiser 27 January 1866 advertised Evershed's men’s accessories and celebrated flannel shirts. British Newspaper Archive
The Eversheds raised their family in Brighton. Life was challenging after Frederick’s death but thankfully, the family had domestic and childcare help. It seems that Ellen was driven. She certainly had her own unique talents on which to base a new future in the capital.
Brighton Gazette 6 February 1873 - Ellen vowed to continue the business. British Newspaper Archive
Ellen's unusual occupation in the 1891 Hampstead census was ‘Secretary of the Exhibition of Embroidery’. She organized competitions for amateur needleworkers and showcased their creations. While there were few formal rules, one requirement was the use of Pearsall’s threads (which, naturally, were sold by Ellen). Embroidered book covers were offered as prizes.
The Queen of Saturday 2 February 1895 informed its readers that Mrs Evershed ‘the courteous manager of Messrs Harris' depot for embroideries in old Bond-street’ had opened a shop around the corner. At the age of 60, she was ready for a new challenge, albeit helped by her daughter Ellen Lucas Evershed.
The Gentlewoman 3 April 1897 advertised the new designs and twice weekly classes available at Mrs Evershed’s new shop. British Newspaper Archive
The Queen 19 March 1904 . Mrs Evershed’s work basket featured ribbon work, a new decorative technique. British Newspaper Archive
The shops sold an astonishing variety of traditional and modern needlework sundries. Patrons were encouraged to embroider everything which could be embroidered including ordinary curtains, cushions, work baskets etc' and the surprising, for example ‘Natty coats for dogs’ (sorry, no images!). Other items for sale included ‘artistic furniture,’ which combined ‘ease with tastefulness in designs’ and copperware made by Newlyn fishermen, inspired by the contemporary Arts and Crafts movement.
Weldon’s needlework old and new Needle Art Series no 9, p 5 illustrated the historic patterns available at Evershed’s
The Queen published a regular column headed ‘The Work-Table' which provided advice upon knotty (sometimes literally!) needlework problems. Frequently answers relied upon the expertise of Mrs Evershed and her staff.
It is a testament to Ellen’s business acumen that all levels of customer’s ability were addressed and monetised. Less skillful embroiderers could avail themselves of a service ‘to stretch to shape needlework tapestry that has pulled crookedly in working'.
Ellen saw potential everywhere. Church furnishings provided an obvious source of work, but lest non-religious customers felt overlooked, her trade ticket reminded customers of her versatility.
Trade ticket for Mrs Evershed from Washington Irving’s The keeping of Christmas at Bracebridge Hall - British Library Collins 461
Stock was frequently refreshed. Imports from Italy, France and even New Zealand provided constant temptation. Evershed’s was not the only embroidery retailer in London. There was much competition but The Queen’s estimation of Ellen as ‘the best in needlework’ has much justification. The shop was still operating in 1945, but appears to have closed before daughter Ellen Lucas's death in 1949.
Assurance that Evershed's was still in business - The Queen 21 March 1945 British Newspaper Archive
P J M Marks
Curator, bookbindings, Printed Heritage Collections
Further reading:
Florence Sophie Davson ‘The revival of art needlework and embroidery’ in The Girls’ Own Paper pp.798-799
Weldon’s Needlework Old and New series number 9.
British Newspaper Archive